How to punch a loop on a typewriter singer. Sewing a buttonhole on a sewing machine

Manufacturing loops on a sewing machine produced depending on the class of the sewing machine and the capabilities inherent in it. The loop itself is almost the same for almost all household sewing machines - it is a flat rectangular loop embroidered with a regular zigzag stitch. But for computer sewing machines, which have an electronic mode control board inside, the loop is made both a simple rectangular and a loop with an eye. A computerized machine can make several types of such loops and different sizes. In the production of garments, a special machine is used - this is a buttonhole machine. It is intended only for making loops. But now, we think, we will tell you how loops are made on our own home sewing machine and what the process of buttonhole buttonholes is. In many sewing machines, a different principle for making loops is used - according to the method of basting. The very process of making loops can be in automatic mode (this is an automatic loop), in semi-automatic mode and in manual mode. In both cases, a buttonhole foot is used.

1. Making a loop in automatic mode:

A lot of modern household sewing machines sew loops in automatic mode. To do this, a special foot is installed on your sewing machine. A button is inserted into this foot, according to the size of which the future loop will be sewn out. there must also be a lever to switch the machine in the opposite direction. this lever is behind the needle threader lever. You need to push it down. And now let's get started - install the buttonhole foot on the machine, insert a button into it, under the size of which the buttonhole will be sewn and pull the lever for switching the machine's stroke, from forward to reverse, down. It will be helpful to read the instruction manual for your sewing machine before making a buttonhole. The button itself does not have to be exactly the one you are going to sew on, but you can use any, but a flat button, it is important that its diameter matches the size of the original button.
In general, the weaving process loop machine extremely simple, the sewing machine will do everything for you. Place the fabric under the foot, press the pedal of the machine, and it automatically performs the movement back and forth, while doing the backtack. Automatic buttonhole makes the work much easier and faster, but at first some skill is required, since there are some features. Sometimes on some sewing machines, the reverse advance of the zigzag may differ in the width of the stitch in width from the forward movement; for this, there is a fine-tuning knob for this operation. And of course, do not forget about the pressure of the presser foot on the fabric, in some cases it needs to be loosened, most often when the fabric is thin. Otherwise, the fabric may get chewed up and instead of a loop, you will get a piece of thread. Experienced craftsmen move the fabric additionally, manually, but we do not advise you to do this, nor does the manufacturer. Excessive tension on the fabric can cause serious damage to your sewing machine. It is better to make several training samples of loops, and only then sew them on the finished product, in some cases this is necessary, a chiffon blouse will not withstand repeated stitching of the loop. After adjusting the tension of the threads and adjusting the pressure of the foot, select the width of the zigzag and the number of threads, and then the buttonhole will be beautiful, strong and even.

For more details on baiting, see the video:

2. Stitching in semi-automatic mode:

The buttonhole process in semi-automatic mode is almost the same as in automatic mode. performing a loop. The difference is that you are in control of this process. Simply put, any of the 4 operations with which a loop is sewn must be separately turned on by the knob for switching the loop manufacturing modes. At the very beginning, a small zigzag stitch is sewn, for example, forward, then switch the handle to a wide bartack and then switch to reverse advance, but next to the stitched line, and at the end - again a wide bartack. It is necessary to constantly switch the operating modes of the sewing machine, but then you watch how the loop is made and you can always pause and correct the inaccuracy, or direct the fabric under the foot. If you are just going to buy a sewing machine, then we advise you to stop at this option for sewing a buttonhole with a sewing machine. By all means, this type of loop execution for economy-class sewing machines.

3. Stitching the buttonhole in manual mode.

To sew a buttonhole in manual mode, your sewing machine must be able to sew with a zigzag stitch. Usually these are sewing machines Podolsk, Chaika, Veritas of old releases and some economy class sewing machines, produced now and at a price not exceeding five thousand rubles. To make a buttonhole, you need to have a regular zigzag foot, it is already installed on your machine. We warn you, making buttonholes manually on a sewing machine is not a very convenient process, but if there is no other option, then you will have to learn.

4. Adjust the width and length of the stitch:

The stitch length is set in values ​​from 0.3 to 1 mm and the thread tension is selected on the experimental sample, but most often it is from 1 to 5 units, i.e. less than half. The presser foot itself, as already mentioned for zigzag sewing, must necessarily be with a narrow and wide slot. Set the adjuster knobs to the following positions: when passing the sides of the buttonhole side of the buttonhole: stitch width 0.2 cm, wide bartack maximum maximum, or required in place: 0.5 cm. When sewing a wide bartack, be sure to set the stitch length to zero.

5. Procedure for looping:

First, pierce the fabric with a needle at the beginning of the buttonhole. Lower the presser foot and sew four or five stitches of the top wide bartack. Stitch length without material advance. Now lift the needle from the fabric up and set a zigzag of a smaller width (at your discretion), and a stitch length of 0.5. Now start stitching the first side of the loop until it is the length you need. Recommended before doing loops on a sewing machine, mark its length in advance, with a pointed bar of soap or use tailor's chalk, plain chalk in a pinch. Having reached the marked end of the loop, lift the needle from the fabric up, now set the zigzag width to maximum, and the stitch length to zero. Sew four to five stitches to make the second cross bar of the buttonhole. Then stop the machine with the needle in the leftmost position. Raising the presser foot without lifting the needle, turn the fabric and change the sewing direction.
After removing the fabric from the machine, cut the loop with a special loop cutter, having inserted the limiters in the form of pins in advance.

Sewing buttonholes for clothes can be made by hand, but fast and accurate buttonholes can only be made on a sewing machine that comes with a special foot.
The buttonhole on the sewing machine can be sewn in automatic, semi-automatic and manual modes.
Details about the features of buttonhole sewing on a sewing machine. What is the difference between automatic looping and semi-automatic mode. With which buttonhole mode is it better to buy a sewing machine, etc.

1. Methods for making a loop on a typewriter

The method of making a buttonhole on a typewriter depends on the class of the sewing machine and its technical capabilities. But the type of buttonhole performed by household sewing machines is practically the same for everyone - a flat straight buttonhole based on a zigzag stitch. And only electronic computerized machines, as well as household embroidery machines, have the ability to make a buttonhole for clothes with an eye, and several types and any size.

In the sewing industry, special machines are used for making buttonholes, they are called buttonhole machines. For example, a class 25 buttonhole machine is used only for making straight buttonholes, cutting a hole in the fabric. But we are interested in how to make buttonholes on a household sewing machine, the sequence of buttonhole buttonholes in semi-automatic and manual modes, since in automatic mode the buttonhole is performed without the participation of a seamstress.

Depending on the class of the sewing machine, the process of making a buttonhole can be automatic (automatic buttonhole), semi-automatic and manual. In all cases, a special buttonhole foot is used, except for manual mode. In manual mode, a foot is used to perform a zigzag stitch (Seagull sewing machine, etc.)

Many modern household sewing machines perform buttonholes in automatic mode. To do this, just install a special foot, approximately the same as in the top photo. In order not to control the length of the buttonhole in the foot, you need to install a button and do not forget to push the vertical lever for switching the machine's stroke down to the stop.

The paws designed for basting a buttonhole in the athematic mode allow you not to mark the size of the buttonhole on the fabric, the button fixed in the foot serves as a guide for the size of the buttonhole. The vertical lever, in the process of making a buttonhole, automatically switches the movement of the machine in the opposite direction, so do not forget to pull it out. It is located at the top of the front cover and is only used for the buttonhole operation. It is better not to push it unless necessary.
If you have a sewing machine manual, see the section on how to sew buttonholes, there should be detailed and visual instructions.

It is not necessary to install a button in the foot exactly the one that you will sew on this garment. After all, it can be oval or square, have a leg, and even if it is inserted into the foot, it will not stay in it and jump out. You just need to pick up a flat button about the same diameter as the buttonhole and place it in the foot.

Actually, the process of making a sewing loop machine is very simple. Put the fabric under the foot, press the pedal of the machine, and it will automatically move in both directions, while performing all the necessary backtacks and switching. After finishing work, the sewing machine will stop itself, ready to start the next loop. Making a buttonhole automatically with the button pattern set makes the job very easy, but requires some skill, as there are a number of features.
For some sewing machines, the reverse zigzag stitch frequency is different from the forward zigzag stitch frequency. Therefore, an additional "fine" adjustment of this operation is provided, when the zigzag frequency in the opposite direction is separately adjusted. However, not all sewing machine models are equipped with this function, and therefore the thread density on each side of the buttonhole may differ.

On our website there is an instruction for a Brother sewing machine. It contains a description of how to adjust the zigzag loop frequency in automatic mode.
Remember to adjust the presser foot pressure on the fabric as well. In many cases, the presser foot pressure should be relieved, especially if the buttonhole will be welted on a blouse made from lightweight fabrics such as chiffon. If you do not adjust the presser foot pressure, then the fabric under the foot will “catch”, shrink, and instead of a loop, a ball of thread will turn out.
Experienced seamstresses "insure" the movement of the fabric by pulling it with their hands, but we do not recommend you to do this, as well as the manufacturer. If the fabric is pulled by hand, the sewing machine may be seriously damaged. It is better to make a few test samples of buttonholes, adjust the thread tension, presser foot pressure, select the optimal buttonhole size, etc. And only after that proceed to "punch" the loops on the finished product.

semi-automatic buttonhole almost the same as the buttonhole process in automatic mode. The only and essential difference is that you have to control this process. With this method of performing a loop, you need to turn on each of the 4 consecutive operations separately by manually switching modes. To do this, on the front panel of the sewing machine, a knob for switching the looping modes is installed.

Suppose you set the sewing machine to the buttonhole operation, lower the presser foot onto the fabric, and start sewing the buttonhole. The first cycle can be started with any operation, including cross bartacking. In our example, a small zigzag stitch will be laid first, along the right side of the loop. Before reaching the line marked in advance with chalk, you need to stop the machine and switch, with the needle raised, to the wide transverse bartack mode. Sew a few stitches and switch the handle to sew the buttonhole in the opposite direction, next to the already sewn stitch. The last operation is again a wide bartack, only on the other side of the loop.

In the semi-automatic buttonhole mode, you have to constantly switch the mode of operation of the sewing machine. At first glance, you might think that this is inconvenient. In fact, on the contrary, since the whole process is completely under control and you can always stop the machine, fix or adjust the fabric under the foot, increase the distance between the lines, etc.

If you are just going to buy a sewing machine, then we recommend that you stop at this version of the loop. It is this type of sewing loop that the Janome economy class sewing machine has. Based on our own experience, we can recommend buying a sewing machine with this buttonhole method. Although we have both industrial buttonhole machines and automatic buttonhole machines, everyone uses a regular economy class machine that has this kind of buttonhole.

Video on how to sew buttonholes on a sewing machine in semi-automatic mode.

To sew a buttonhole in manual mode, it is only necessary that the sewing machine sews a zigzag stitch. Performing a loop in manual mode is performed by such machine models as the Chaika sewing machine, Podolsk 142, the Veritas 8014 sewing machine and some modern economy class machines costing less than 5000 rubles.

For loop execution A regular zigzag foot will do. Moreover, such machines do not have another, special foot for a buttonhole. Making buttonholes by hand on a sewing machine is not very convenient, but if there is no other choice, then you can try.
Be sure to mark the buttonhole with chalk or baste this section of fabric with contrasting threads.

Zigzag stitch width and length can be adjusted manually. Set the stitch length in the range from 0.3 to 1 mm, select the thread tension on a prototype, but usually from 1 to 5, that is, less than half. Install the zigzag foot on the machine, as already mentioned, with a wide narrow slot. Set the adjustment knob to the next position. For basting the sides of the buttonhole: stitch width - 0.2 cm.

Cross bartack: maximum width is 0.5 cm. When sewing a cross bartack, remember to set the stitch frequency to "0".

Making a buttonhole on a sewing machine requires some experience, and paradoxical as it sounds, especially when done in automatic mode.
Try making a few "experimental" buttonholes first, preferably with all the padding and lining, repeating the section of the garment where you will be making the buttonholes. You will find that sometimes both sides of the zigzag stitch run so close that it is difficult to cut through the fabric without damaging the stitching threads.
Sometimes, when performing a backward movement, the sewing machine "slips" and clumps of thread form. Sometimes you even have to completely dissolve the loop, which is highly undesirable.
In thick places, the thread may break, loose stitches may appear from below, etc.

Consider these "nuances" and first set the correct thread tension. On thickened places, you can "knock" in advance with the handles of heavy tailor's scissors.
Mark the loop with long lines in chalk so you can see where to stop the car. The foot is not glass, and sometimes you have to stop the machine at random.
See if the two zigzag stitches are too close together. With a certain skill, you can slightly shift the fabric, move the line back, and closer to the bartack, "return" it back.

Start the buttonhole by carefully lowering the needle into the fabric at the very beginning of the buttonhole.
Lower the presser foot and sew 4 or 5 stitches of the first wide bartack. Stitch length to "0".
Then lift the needle out of the fabric and set a smaller zigzag width (as you wish) and a stitch length of 0.5. Now start working the first side of the loop until it reaches the intended border.
After going to the end of the buttonhole mark, lift the needle out of the fabric, set the zigzag width to maximum and the stitch length to 0.
Sew 4-5 stitches to create a second bartack. Stop the machine with the needle in the left position.
Raise the presser foot and, without lifting the needle, turn the fabric and change the sewing direction.
Remove the fabric from the machine and make a slit in the buttonhole with a special expander for cutting the buttonholes, after inserting pins into the edges of the buttonhole. They will be a reliable stop for the spreader blade, and you will not cut the loop more than necessary.

The embroidery machine has endless possibilities, including loops. On it, you can sweep not only ordinary straight sewing loops, but also eye loops. Eye loops of any size, any shape and type, including those with a reinforcing thread, this machine will make easily and accurately.

Modern sewing machines perform many types of stitches, but many of them are never used. And here loop execution in automatic or semi-automatic mode - this is a very popular operation. When buying a sewing machine, choose one that has this operation, even if you do not plan to make buttonholes for clothes yet.

For expensive sewing machines, a loop is necessarily provided, and it is done in automatic mode. But you do not have to buy just such a machine to make buttonholes on clothes. Many inexpensive economy-class sewing machines have a semi-automatic buttonhole. Pay attention to this when buying a sewing machine. Sometimes, a small surcharge of 300 - 500 rubles will allow you to buy a sewing machine that performs loops in semi-automatic mode.

The buttonhole sewing machine comes with a special presser foot. But, even if your machine does not have it, you can buy it separately at any sewing machine store. Pay attention to the fastening of the foot. When buying a new accessory foot, take with you any foot from your sewing machine kit.

To avoid damaging the loop when cutting it, use pins. The pins should not be too thick as they can sometimes leave puncture marks. This applies to thin and "delicate" fabrics such as silk. For them, it is desirable to use very thin and sharp pins.

There is a very simple way by which you will learn how to sew buttonholes on a sewing machine without a special function and a buttonhole foot. In this master class, we will talk about this.

Most often, the loops on the fastener of the product are processed at the last moment, when the whole product is almost ready. It is important to remember that the location of the loops must be duplicated, for example, using adhesive dublerin. Dublerin is desirable to choose a non-contrasting color relative to the color of the fabric of the product.

You will need:

Tailor's pins for medium fabrics;

Tailor's pins for thin fabrics;

Small scissors;

Ruler;

Disappearing fine line fabric marker.

Step 1. Markup

Determine the width of future loops. The loop is usually made a few millimeters longer than the diameter of the button.

Button diameter - 2.7 cm, selected buttonhole width - 3.0 cm.

Mark the position of all loops in place of the future fastener. Using a washable marker, draw a loop frame 3.0 cm long and about 0.5 cm wide.

If you don't have a fine marker, you can mark the frame with marker stitches.

Sweep or chop the layers of fabric in the fastener area with tailor's pins.

Pins for thin fabrics are placed on the buttonhole frame, pricking them along the short sides, this will provide convenience and accuracy when processing the buttonhole frame on the sewing machine.

Step 2 Frame

This operation is performed on the sewing machine.

Settings: straight line, stitch length 1.5 mm.

According to the markup, stitch the frame with a line with a short stitch: the length of the line along the long sides of the loop frame is limited by pins, in the area of ​​​​the short sides of the loop frame it is better to count the number of stitches, it should be the same on all short sides of all loops, so the accuracy of the loops will be maximized.

Loop frame. The pins located on the short sides of the loop frame should NOT be removed at this stage.

Step 3. Long sides of the buttonhole

At this stage, the long sides of the loop are processed with a tight zigzag.

Settings: zigzag stitch, stitch length ~2.5 mm, zigzag density ~0.4 mm.

The zigzag must be laid along the long side of the buttonhole so that the stitches lie on both sides of the laid line that forms the frame of the buttonhole. Guidelines for length - pins.

Step 4. Short sides of the buttonhole

At this stage, the loop frame closes - the short sides are processed with a tight zigzag.

Settings: zigzag stitch, stitch length ~6.0 mm, minimum zigzag density ~0.2 mm.

On a test piece, it is better to preselect the stitch length for sewing a short buttonhole edge. The stitch should cover the width of the buttonhole. The machine foot is located exactly in the center of the buttonhole, and the short side is clearly under the needle.

To close the buttonhole in width, you need to make about 10 stitches back and forth, performing dot bartacks at the beginning and at the end of the operation.

The buttonhole frame is overcast, all pins and markings can be removed.

Iron the loop area.

Step 5: Finishing

It remains only to cut the loops. This operation is conveniently performed using small and sharp scissors. It is very important not to touch the zigzag threads when cutting.

Carefully trim the excess threads inside the loop, cutting out their excess.

How easy and simple to sew a button on a leg

In order to make it more convenient to sew on a button, forming a small “leg”, you can use a sewing machine needle: place the thick part of the needle under the button, and prick the sharp part into the fabric.

By education, Daria is a PR and economist, but a few years ago she devoted herself entirely to her favorite business - sewing.

She learned to sew from magazines, books and using the Internet, she also has sewing courses in her arsenal, but Daria considers herself self-taught. She loves to study specialized literature on sewing from different years and countries, and then apply the acquired knowledge in practice.

At the end of 2017, Daria became the winner of the holiday competition from the site.

She maintains her page in Instagram and group

Those who sew clothes with their own hands know that the overall appearance of the product largely depends on how the sewing buttonholes look like. It is the balayage of the loop that is considered the most important operation, which is most often impossible to redo without traces. Therefore, before making a buttonhole on a sewing machine, especially in the "automatic" mode, be sure to try a test buttonhole for a button on a piece of fabric that has the same number of folds of fabric and cool materials.

In this article, we will give you some useful tips on how to make buttonholes on a sewing machine in automatic mode with a special foot, and in semi-automatic mode with a regular zigzag foot.

Video on how to make buttonholes on a sewing machine in four steps.

On dense woolen fabrics, it is easier to sew buttonholes, since the machine advances the fabric well in both directions, without any problems. But when the fabric is very thin and delicate, then a small step of the zigzag stitch can “slip”, and an incorrectly adjusted rail (teeth) can tighten the fabric under the foot. In both cases, the sewing loop will have to be redone, and most often with consequences, in the form of punctures in the fabric, and sometimes its gusts.

Therefore, first setting up the sewing machine. Adjust the upper and lower thread tension. Adjust the rack height (if there is such an adjustment). Check the amount of pressure on the fabric foot. In order for the fabric to move confidently under the foot, it must be well pressed against the teeth. The teeth cannot be raised high for thin fabrics, otherwise the fabric will be chewed.

Do not forget to bring a special lever to the foot, which automatically switches the mode of operation of the machine. Those sewing machines that have such a foot as in this photo in the kit must also have a lever for making an automatic buttonhole.

Buttonhole sewing in automatic mode

The automatic buttonhole foot does not require marking the buttonhole on the fabric. One vertical and one horizontal reference is sufficient. The size of the buttonhole, the machine will automatically determine the size of the button installed in a special fastening on the foot. But this foot does not have such a device, however, the size of the buttonhole can be set visually. However, read the instructions for your sewing machine in more detail about this. Our task is to protect you from common mistakes made when making a buttonhole.

And one of them is that they often make mistakes with the size (loop length). We put a button in the foot, and immediately punch the loop. As a result, it turns out that its size does not correspond to the diameter of the button. Check first what the loop will be by making at least 5-7 prototypes.

In the automatic buttonhole mode, the operation cannot be stopped unless the power of the machine is turned off. But you can always manually operate the reverse lever. And in some cases, this opportunity can help you out, practice.

In fact, this sewing machine is designed for automatic buttonholes, but we will show you how you can use it to sew buttonholes in semi-automatic mode, with the ability to control the buttonhole process.

To do this, instead of a special foot, put a regular zigzag foot and be sure to pull down the reverse motion lever (completely).

We begin to weave a loop. At the same time, you can clearly see each stitch of the buttonhole and, most importantly, if necessary, you can always stop the machine.

After the stitches reach the desired border, you only need to switch the lever in the opposite direction. Moreover, the machine can be temporarily stopped.

You see how beautiful it is, and most importantly, by controlling the process, make a buttonhole using a regular zigzag foot. But the main thing that this method allows you to do is to create a good gap between the stitches (slightly shift one of the sides), which will allow you to carefully cut a hole for a button.

This is actually quite an important part of making a buttonhole, as it is very easy to damage the bartack threads and overlock stitches when cutting the buttonhole.
To make it easier to cut the loop, learn to slightly shift one of the sides of the overcasting while the machine is stopped.
And in order not to damage the locking stitches, it is enough to put two pins, as in this photo.

Now you can check how the button goes into the cut loop and then sew on the button.
The button should be tight so that it does not arbitrarily unfasten when worn. In addition, over time, the buttonhole will increase slightly, so a little effort when the button enters the buttonhole will not hurt.

In performing this operation, not a single seamstress working manually can compete with a sewing machine operating in the \"zigzag\" mode. With good machine control, it takes only a few seconds to overcast one buttonhole.

Attach the buttonhole foot to the machine. It differs from the regular zigzag foot by having a groove along the sole. Thanks to this groove, an even and parallel overcasting is ensured. A convex frequent line\"zigzag\", once in the groove, will no longer allow the foot to deviate from the course. In addition, this foot has an additional small round hole through which you can pass the cord for better buttonhole processing. We will talk about this a little later. If your machine did not come with a special foot, you can get by with a regular zigzag foot.

Here is the easiest option for processing a slotted loop. Set a very small stitch length (turn the knob closer to zero). If the fabric is of medium thickness, set the "zigzag" height to about 2 mm. For thicker fabric and, accordingly, thick threads, increase the height, for thin - reduce. The loop is not cut before overcasting, but only marked on the fabric with chalk or basting thread.

Holding the upper and lower threads behind the foot with your hand, lay the first stitch along the basting. When you reach the end of the intended segment, stop the machine at the moment when the needle is deflected in the zigzag stitch to the right and lowered into the fabric. Raising the foot, turn the fabric around the needle, as if around an axis, clockwise. The inserted stitch will be in front in the sewing direction, but will be offset to the left of the needle. Now it is necessary to lay a second one parallel to it, exactly the same. But first you need to make a strong transverse bartack, which will not allow the loop to break when worn. To do this, set the height \"zigzag \" twice as much - about 4 mm and make 5-7 stitches across the entire width of the future loop. Stopping the needle in the raised position, return the zigzag height knob to its previous position and lay the second seam (fig. a, b). When the needle is at the level of the beginning of the first line, leave it in the upper position, double the height of the "zigzag" and make a second transverse bartack (fig. c). It remains to fasten the thread so that the line does not bloom. To do this, set the "zigzag" knob to zero and sew 3-4 stitches with a straight stitch.


The final operation is to cut the fabric between two rows of overcasting with a safety razor blade or a special tailor's knife - flogging.

How to cut a loop

1. Insert two pins at the ends of the loop, in front of the securing cross stitches. They will prevent the scissors from cutting through the fabric beyond the ends of the buttonhole.

2. In the middle of the loop, insert the tip of the blade of scissors or a special tool for cutting loops and ripping seams into the fabric at the cut line. Carefully cut through the loop to the end, first in one direction, then in the other.

3. Strengthen the edges of the loop with special glue so that they do not crumble. Check in advance on a loop sample how the glue will work.
To obtain a strong and beautiful embossed loop, a thin cord or twisted thread can be threaded into a special hole in the foot. Slightly loosen the upper thread tension. Pull the cord behind the foot and hold, pulling, along with the upper and lower threads. Start sewing the buttonhole in such a direction that the bend of the cord is facing the edge of the product, then the buttonhole will be stronger. Otherwise, the procedure is the same as already described. Thanks to the device of the foot, the overcasting itself will lie on top of the cord. However, with good skill, you can lay a cord under the basting without a special foot.

Embossed loops can also be obtained without an auxiliary cord. To do this, slightly loosen the thread tension in the shuttle (catch the moment when the threaded bobbin suspended on the thread begins to slowly slide on it due to its own weight). On the contrary, tighten the upper thread. The sequence of operations for overcasting is the usual one. The relief is obtained due to the ratio of tensions and the selection of the thickness of the threads.

Of course, before sewing buttonholes on the product, it is worth practicing on a piece of the same fabric in order to select the size of the zigzag stitch, the tension of the threads and their thickness.